Menswear Rules: Why They Matter (And Why They Don’t)

Menswear has long been steeped in a set of rules and traditions, some of which date back centuries. From the proper way to wear a tie to the dos and don'ts of matching patterns, these guidelines can help refine one's style. However, modern fashion also embraces breaking the rules, allowing for personal expression and adaptation to current trends. Let's explore why menswear rules matter—and why sometimes, they don’t.

Why Menswear Rules Matter

1. Foundation of Style:

   • Menswear rules, such as pairing certain colors or ensuring proper fit, provide a solid foundation for building a classic wardrobe. Knowing how a suit should fit or the ideal tie width can be the difference between looking polished and looking unkempt. For example, a well-fitted jacket should hug the shoulders, and the sleeves should show about half an inch of shirt cuff—a timeless rule that has stood the test of time.
   • These guidelines also serve as a starting point for those new to dressing well. They make it easier to navigate complex sartorial choices like selecting the right suit for different occasions or understanding the importance of dress codes.
     
     

2. Cultural and Historical Significance:

   • Many menswear rules are tied to tradition and history, which adds depth to the garments themselves. Understanding why black tie means a tuxedo or why certain patterns (like houndstooth or glen plaid) were popularized in specific regions gives a sense of continuity and respect for the past. For instance, the history of the double-breasted suit or the origins of the Windsor knot provide insight into how menswear has evolved.
   • Following these traditions can show respect for formal events or professional environments where certain attire is expected. For example, wearing a navy suit with a white shirt to a job interview conveys seriousness and attention to detail.
     
     

3. Visual Harmony:

   • Rules often exist to create balance and proportion in a look. A classic rule like "never button the bottom button of your suit jacket" is rooted in ensuring the garment drapes correctly when worn, maintaining clean lines. Similarly, rules about color coordination—like matching the color of your belt with your shoes—help create a cohesive appearance.

Why Menswear Rules Don’t Always Matter

1. Personal Expression:

   • Modern menswear has evolved to embrace individual expression over strict adherence to tradition. Today’s style landscape encourages men to experiment with bold colors, unconventional cuts, and unique combinations that might have once been considered faux pas. Wearing sneakers with suits, mixing prints, or layering different textures are just a few ways people express themselves through clothing.
   • The shift away from rigid rules allows men to develop a personal style that feels authentic rather than simply following what is prescribed. This can lead to more confidence in one's wardrobe, as wearing clothes that reflect one’s personality often resonates better than strictly adhering to traditional standards.
     
     

2. Changing Trends:

   • Fashion is inherently dynamic, and trends often shift, leaving some rules outdated. For example, the idea that brown shoes are not appropriate for evening wear has faded significantly in recent years. Now, stylish brown brogues can be seen as appropriate even in semi-formal settings.
   • Similarly, once-rigid dress codes like business formal have relaxed, particularly with the rise of tech culture and remote work. In many industries, a polished look doesn’t require a tie or even a traditional suit, making some of the classic rules less applicable in everyday contexts.
     
     

3. Cultural and Regional Variations:

   • Not all menswear rules apply universally, as style often varies by culture and region. What might be considered acceptable or stylish in New York may be perceived differently in Tokyo or Milan. The key is adapting to the environment and understanding which rules apply and which can be bent or broken.
   • For example, the dress codes of Silicon Valley have embraced a more casual aesthetic that would be out of place on Wall Street, where tradition still holds sway. Understanding this distinction can help one navigate different social and professional environments with ease.

Striking the Balance

Finding the balance between respecting menswear rules and knowing when to break them is part of developing a sophisticated sense of style. Here are a few tips for navigating this balance:

• Learn the Rules First: Understanding why certain guidelines exist makes it easier to bend them intentionally rather than by accident. For example, knowing that a tie should reach the middle of your belt buckle helps you understand why a shorter tie might look odd in most settings—but also why it could work with certain casual outfits.

• Adapt to the Occasion: Always consider the context when deciding whether to follow a rule. A casual dinner might be the perfect time to try mixing patterns, while a black-tie wedding might call for a more classic approach.

• Embrace Modern Interpretations: Menswear is continually evolving, and many designers push boundaries with their collections. Follow trends but stay true to what suits your body type, lifestyle, and personality.